Across the Canal

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Big Chief Demond Melancon is a New Orleans native needle and thread artist. Big Chief is well known for creating massive Suits as a Black Masker. His Suits are sculptural forms based on the size of his body which are composed of intricate, hand-sewn beadwork revealing a collective visual narrative.

Over the last four years Big Chief Demond and Denim Tears have been collaborating on a collection that highlights Mardi Gras and the lively culture and story of New Orleans.

Across the Canal

The Scorpion & the Frog

Denim Tears announces the launch of its new collection The Scorpion & The Frog.

Conceived in examination of parallels shared by the African American Civil Rights movement in the United States and The Troubles of Northern Ireland, The Scorpion & The Frog offers an extensive reflection of two of the most poignant examples of social resistance in contemporary human history.

Although twelve years and almost 4,000 miles of separation exist between the onset of the Civil Rights Movement and The Troubles, The Scorpion & The Frog draws on their similarities to artistically interpret and communicate the philosophies of activism and solidarity.

The collection draws heavy inspiration from African-American documentary filmmaker St. Clair Bourne’s 1983 short film, The Black and the Green, which was screened at the MoMA in December 2023.

In the film, Bourne offers a deep exploration of the influence of the African American Civil Rights Movement—philosophically and strategically—on the political and nationalistic fight for independence in Northern Ireland from the late 1960s to 1998.

Presented by Bourne as a fact-finding trip to Belfast by five Black American activists, The Black and the Green showcases the group’s observations; Catholics living in ghettos under constant surveillance and the threat of violence; a dark mirror to the struggles of African Americans in their fight for the abolition of legalized racial segregation during the 1950s and 60s. A deeply introspective work, the film is, at its heart, a gesture of solidarity, giving light to the transformative power of activism to challenge and inspire change beyond borders.

A moral contrast to the messaging at the heart of The Black and the Green, the collection’s title is borrowed from the 20th-century animal fable The Scorpion and the Frog, which teaches violent people will hurt others even if it’s against their best interests – simply because it’s “in their nature.”

Tremaine Emory chose the fable, which appears in The Crying Game – a movie in which a Black British soldier bonds with one of his IRA captors – for its shared platitudes on human nature, setting the collection’s foundations and building a tapestry of provocative ideas and reflections.

Shin Murayama, a mask masker and soft sculptor with work exhibited across Tokyo, New York, and Paris, worked closely with Denim Tears to produce masks inspired by those worn during The Troubles. Where traditional masks feature hollow eyes, Murayama’s reimagining is fitted with goggles hand-braided from upcycled vintage Ralph Lauren herringbone jackets.

Upcycling has been further utilized in creating the collection’s bomber jackets in collaboration with Japanese design studio, DELICATE UNIT. American-made MA-1 bomber jackets from the late 1980s and '90s are refreshed through the application of globally sourced Guinness towels and complimentary with NIGERIA embroidery–in reference to Guinness Foreign Extra’s origins–before being deconstructed and re-constructed by DELICATE UNIT for distinct, high-detail finish.

With the Free Angela and Free Bernadette tees, Denim Tears champions key figures of the movements presented in The Black and the Green, Angela Davis and Bernadette Devlin McAliskey.

Davis, an American Marxist and feminist political activist, was listed on the FBI's Ten Most Wanted Fugitive List following her support of the Soledad Brothers.

Tried for murder, kidnapping, and conspiracy, her subsequent 16-month incarceration would see her become a major figure in the prison abolition movement. As an active member of the Committees of Correspondence for Democracy and Socialism (CCDS) and an affiliate of the Communist Party USA, Davis’ tireless work over the past five decades has positioned her as one of American history's most important and respected activists.

Bernadette Devlin McAliskey, serving as a Member of Parliament in Northern Ireland from 1969-74, would rise to national and international prominence as the British parliament's youngest-ever member aged 21. An impassioned political activist and advocate for a socialist Irish republic, Bernadette would show her support for the African American civil rights movement, striking parallels with the Catholics’ struggles in Northern Ireland.

Similarly to Angela Davis, Bernadette was imprisoned for six months due to her involvement in the three-day Battle of the Bogside riot, often cited as the beginning of the Troubles.

On the Fist tee, Denim Tears draws attention to one of the most recognizable prejudice symbols of 1950s

Britain: No Irish, No Blacks, No Dogs. Appearing in Gaelic across the sleeve, this slogan embodied the racist rhetoric of the era, and now, alongside the Black Power emblem of self-reliance and self-determination, is symbolic of the themes presented in The Black and the Green.

Alongside the collection’s launch, a pop-up event will commence at Dover Street Market Paris during Paris Fashion Week from Saturday, January 25th to Sunday, January 26th. Further pop-ups will follow in Tokyo (Saturday, February 1st to Sunday, February 2nd) and Seoul (Saturday, February 8th to Sunday, February 9th).

The Scorpion & the Frog

African Diaspora Goods

African Diaspora Goods, Denim Tears' New York flagship, opened on March 15th, 2024.

The store’s design was a collaborative effort between Denim Tears’ founder, Tremaine Emory, and Theaster Gates, an award-winning multidisciplinary American artist and urban planner.

Gates, whose art translates the intricacies of Blackness through space theory, land development, sculpture, and performance, has extended the role of the artist as an agent of change through the expansiveness of his approach as a thinker, maker, and builder. Among his many notable artistic and conceptual projects are his “land art” and creative placemaking demonstrations, which he famously undertakes through his Rebuild Foundation, where Gates purchases derelict homes and buildings on Chicago's South Side, transforming and reactivating them into affordable housing, community greenspace, artist studios and residencies, creative entrepreneurship incubators, and archival laboratories for both neighbors and visitors. Inspired by Gates’ decades-long artistic practice of archiving, elevating, and making publicly accessible historic Black images and objects, the store also serves as a community space housing a collection of over one thousand, five hundred publications on the history of the Arts of Africa longside the label’s seasonal collections. This robust selection of books was curated by Lee and Whitney Kaplan, owners of the Culver City-based art book store Arcana: Books on the Arts.

This comprehensive research library is filled with books, exhibition catalogs, and periodicals published in Africa, Europe, The Americas, and Asia, documenting the visual and performative cultures of the Indigenous peoples of Sub-Saharan Africa. Assembled by Arcana over a span of nearly forty years, this unique resource includes material from publishers, booksellers, art dealers, and the libraries of several major collectors and academics. It is one of the most significant American collections of such documentation within a non-institutional setting, similar to Gates’ Johnson Publishing Company Library at his celebrated Stony Island Arts Bank in Chicago and the comprehensive archive of African Americans Visual Arts materials curated by Arcana acquired by the Getty Research Institute in 2022. This book collection serves as a physical testament to Denim Tears' genuine commitment to storytelling, aligning with our ethos and dedication to using fashion as a vehicle to tell impactful stories about the African diaspora.

Tetragrammaton ft. Tremaine Emory

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Tetragrammaton ft. Tremaine Emory